Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Eggs-actly!

I know there is a proper way to cook eggs and I know that most of the time I just wing it (hah!) and get a rubbery ghost of an egg. I wanted to make a section to list the proper times and methods for cooking eggs.

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1. Hard boiling - I took this hard-boiling recipe from chocolateandzucchini.com:

Perfect Hard-Boiled Eggs - 6 large organic eggs that you will preferably have removed from the fridge 30 minutes to an hour beforehand so their shells won't crack (otherwise you can give them a warm bath)

Bring a medium pan of water to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Lower the eggs into the water -- Maxence's mother once gave us a wire egg sieve that proves very handy for this maneuver -- and simmer for exactly 8 minutes (9 if you don't want a soft center in your yolk).

While the eggs are cooking, fill a medium bowl with cold water and add a handful of ice cubes (remember to refill the ice cube tray if you prefer to avoid this).

When the timer goes off, lift the eggs out of the water with a slotted spoon (again, I use my wire egg sieve) and put them in the bowl of ice water; this will halt the cooking.

When the eggs are cold -- this will take just a couple of minutes -- tap them gently* on the counter to crack their shell all around, and return to the bowl a few more minutes: the water will infiltrate the eggs beneath the shell and make them easier to peel. (Also, when peeling the eggs, notice that there is a thin skin between the white and the shell; once found and ruptured, that skin provides good leverage to peel off the shell.)

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* If you're not using all six eggs right away, don't crack or peel the ones you're saving. Just write a capital "D" (for dur, hard) on each shell with a pencil, to make sure no one mistakes them for fresh; this is how my mother does it and I know no other way. Keep the eggs in the fridge and eat within a day or two.

2. Poaching - from Alton Brown on foodnetwork.com:

Always use fresh eggs. If you can't see the difference between the "thick" white and the "thin" white, the yolks will probably break in the pan. Always deliver the eggs to the pan with a custard cup or large spoon. Avoid cracking directly into the pan. When using a non-stick skillet cook in no more than an inch of water. If you don't have a non-stick pan, poach in a deep saucepan containing at least 3 inches of water. Always acidulate the poaching liquid with either vinegar or lemon juice (1 tsp per each cup of water). Bring liquid to a boil, add eggs, then remove from heat and cover. How long you ask? It depends on how many eggs. I like my yolks barely runny so I'll cook 4 eggs for 7 to 8 minutes depending on there size. Since more eggs will absorb more heat from the water, they will take longer to cook, so for large batches always include an extra "test" egg. Always remove eggs with a slotted spoon. Poached eggs can be refrigerated in ice water for up to 8 hours, then reheated in hot water. Do not re-boil.

3. Scrambling - always stealing from smittenkitchen.com :
Scrambled Egg Toast

2 large eggs
2 tablespoons milk, half-and-half or cream
1/8 teaspoon salt
Few grinds black pepper
2 teaspoons butter or olive oil
A 1-inch thick piece of bread
1 tablespoon goat cheese, softened a bit (though cream cheese is a great swap here)
1 teaspoon chives or scallion greens, thinly sliced

Set your table and pour your coffee. I am an absolutely nut about eating my eggs the second they come out of the pan, and to do this, your table needs to be ready for you; your troops should be gathered. Toast your bread, then smear it with the goat cheese and sprinkle it with half the chives. Set it aside. (P.S. If you decide to butter it before adding the goat cheese, I will not tell anyone.)

Beat eggs with milk, salt and pepper in a small bowl, with a fork, until combined, with a few big bubbles. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-low heat; once hot, add butter. Once butter is melted and foamy, add eggs and pause; count to 20 if you must, but let those eggs begin to set up before you start nudging away at them. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, begin push your eggs once from the outside to the center of the pan and pause again; count to 5 if you must, before continuing with another push. Continue in this manner around the pan as if you were trying draw spokes of a wheel through your eggs with your spatula, pausing for 5 seconds after each push. Go around the pan as many times as needed, until your eggs in the center are ribbony damp pile — it should look only 75 percent cooked. Use your spoon or spatula to break up this pile into smaller chunks — to taste. Your eggs should now look almost 90 percent cooked.

Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pile the scrambled eggs bits high on your goat cheese toast. Sprinkle with an additional grind of black pepper and remaining chives. Eat immediately.

4. Over easy

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